Issue #131: Salad Days and a Community Hug

Antisemitism Rising, Potluck Brunch, Colorful Greens, Shallot Vinaigrette

Saturday, the Jewish Food Society (JFS), the New York based sister organization of Asif: Culinary Institute of Israel, with which I work, hosted a Community Shabbat Potluck Brunch to bring together chefs and restaurateurs, food-lovers, their families and friends. The goal was to provide nourishment and support for the Jewish food community in the midst of rising antisemitism since the gruesome October 7 Hamas attacks and Israel’s response. As I’ve written about before in this newsletter, in a head-scratching move, many in the food community have signed onto a boycott of Israeli restaurants and Israeli cultural institutions here in America. What is couched as “anti Zionist” sentiment has spilled over into general antisemitism throughout the city, across the country, and around the world. It feels like an all-too-familiar and dangerous time.

So, JFS and Asif founder Naama Shefi and I hatched a plan for a potluck brunch because of the sense of community such an event evokes. Cooking for each other, sharing food, noshing with family and friends are sure ways to keep oneself centered, to hold onto our collective humanity. As Naama said in her remarks to the sold-out crowd, “Many of us feel sad and lonely these days. We feel it in the street, we feel it in our professional lives. And we feel it most acutely on social media. So we really wanted to gather our incredible community and remind each other that we are not alone. Cooking for someone is the most fundamental act of kindness and care.”

The dessert table.

Among those who brought food to the Untitled Hotel on Freeman Alley, where the event was hosted, were Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin, whose famous salmon rillettes sat alongside Marc Murphy’s Goat Cheese Profiteroles, Einat Admony’s Yemenite Jachnun (shabbat bread), Gabriel Kreuther’s Braised Short Ribs with Sauerkraut, Acme Smoked Fish’s Smoked Whitefish Cannoli, Wylie Dufresne’s Stretch Pizzas, and so much more. Top Chef judge Gail Simmons, who brought a frittata with feta and roasted tomatoes to share, was overcome with emotion when she began her remarks. “This is like a warm, community hug.”

Savory smoked whitefish cannoli with everything spice from Acme Smoked Fish.

Yours truly was asked to bring a green salad, to cut through the richness of it all, which I was happy to do, salad lover that I am. Plus, any excuse to over purchase Campo Rosso chicories and greens brings me joy. Campo Rosso grows a variety of chicories and a few select other greens and vegetables (agretti, peppers, carrots, celery) that taste like Italy to me. Their stand is only at the Union Square Greenmarket on Fridays, which is a day I often miss since we began spending weekends in the Fingerlakes. I had fun shopping there for a crowd.

Radicchio prep: Castelfranco and Treviso Tardivo varieties from Campo Rosso.

Some 10 pounds of mesclun and various radicchios later, the question before me was what dressing to make? I settled on a food-world favorite, the shallot and sherry vinegar vinaigrette from Via Carota, whose simple Insalata Verde is the ne plus ultra of leafy greens. (Is there an Italian phrase for that?) I adapted the recipe from the NY Times Cooking app, bumping up the acidity, salt, and the mustard flavors just a touch to my taste.

Lucky for me, there were leftovers. Mamma mia, what salad days are ahead.

RECIPE: Via Carota’s Shallot Vinaigrette

(Makes 1 1/2 cups)

• 1 shallot, finely minced

• ¼ cup sherry vinegar

• Salt

• 1 clove garlic, finely grated on a Microplane

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

• 1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

• 1 tablespoon honey

• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 sprigs thyme, leaves only

• Freshy ground black pepper

Place the minced shallot in a small sieve and rinse under cold, running water. Shake to drain. Transfer the shallot to a medium bowl and add a tablespoon of warm water, the sherry vinegar, and a pinch of salt, and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk in the garlic, Dijon, whole-grain mustard, and honey until blended. Slowly beat in the olive oil in a steady stream to create an emulsion. Once all of the oil is added, stir in the thyme leaves, a generous amount of black pepper, and another pinch of salt. Alternately, you can use a blender, immersion or countertop. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Don’t forget to add additional salt and pepper when you toss the dressing with your salad. Store leftover dressing at room temperature for a day or two. Store longer in the refrigerator, where the dressing will solidify because of the oil. Bring it back to room temperature and whisk to re-emulsify before serving.