Issue #185: Turning Into a Pumpkin (Pasta)
Pumpkin Promotion Board, A Simple Pasta, A Holiday Gift Idea
I understand if you’re beginning to wonder whether my newsletter has been commandeered by the Pumpkin Promotion Board to disseminate pumpkin propaganda. It’s just that between the decorative (but edible) gourds I purchased to give Nate the fall tableau he wanted on our front porch, and the squash that came in our fall CSA, I’ve had a lot of pumpkin to cook with this season.
It’s been kind of fun. Although we use the words “pumpkin,” “squash,” and “gourd” as collective nouns, the individual characteristics of different varieties are quite varied. I’ve been able to compare them because I’ve treated them all the same. I split them in half, remove the seeds, set them cut-side down on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and roast them at 400°F. until soft. Once cooled, I scoop the flesh into a food processor and purée it. I keep the purée in my fridge until some combination of imagination and Instagram scrolling gives me an idea of what to do with it.
That’s how I know the flesh of different pumpkins varies from dense, to watery, to dry, almost powdery. It can be sweet or slightly bitter, dark orange or bright yellow. Some pumpkins have a very distinct, deep pumpkin flavor, while others are light on the tongue.
(Maybe what we need next year is a pumpkin-eating hippopotamus. Milo would like a companion here in the country.)
So far, I’ve made pumpkin pancakes, pumpkin cornbread, several varieties of pumpkin soup, pumpkin spice latte bars, pumpkin cinnamon swirl scones, pumpkin pots de crème, and of course, pumpkin pie. I still plan to make a pumpkin layer cake with cream cheese frosting I saw on the seriouseats.com website.
But I’ve been too lazy to make tortelli di zucca—pumpkin-stuffed pasta in brown butter and sage—one of Nate’s all-time favorite dishes. (There’s hope and pumpkin purée, yet.) Instead, this weekend, in the midst of preparations for a large holiday party Nate and I were hosting, I made a quick pasta echoing the flavors in that classic dish from Montova that’s traditionally eaten this time of year. I’m calling my concoction Penne & Pumpkin, but feel free to use butternut squash. We liked it so much, I immediately wanted to share it.
RECIPE: Penne & Pumpkin
Makes 3 or 4 servings
Sea salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ medium onion, finely chopped
2 or 3 sprigs fresh sage, leaves and stems intact
½ pound penne or other short pasta
2 ½ cups peeled, diced pumpkin or squash (about 10 ounces)
¼ cup dry white wine
½ cup chicken stock or hot water with 1 tablespoon of white miso dissolved
Freshly ground nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
1 or 2 amaretti biscotti, crushed (optional)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously.
Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, combine 2 tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil. Add the onion, the sage, and a pinch of salt, and sauté until the onion has softened, about 5 minutes.
When the salted water boils, add the penne, stir, and cook until just al dente, using the time indicated on the package as a guideline.
Add the pumpkin to the sauté pan and continue cooking for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until the pumpkin is tender. If it starts to brown, reduce the heat. When soft, increase the heat to high and add the white wine. Scrape any brown bits off the bottom of the pan as the wine evaporates. When it has boiled down to dry, add the stock or miso water, along with a generous grating of fresh nutmeg and some black pepper. Simmer until the pumpkin is very tender (press is with a fork to test). If the liquid evaporates, add a spoonful or two of the pasta cooking water to keep it moist.
When the pasta is almost done and the pumpkin is soft, remove the sage and discard. Use a potato masher to crush about ½ of the pumpkin in the pan. Add some pasta water and swirl the pan to make a sauce. Using a strainer, lift the pasta out of the boiling water into the frying pan. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and all but a couple of tablespoons of the grated Parmigiano. Toss the pan to both emulsify the sauce with the melted butter and cheese and to mix with the pasta, adding more cooking water as necessary to coat the noodles. Transfer to serving bowls and top with the reserved Parmigiano and the crushed amaretti, if using.
Holiday Gift Idea
The venerable scholars of the Smithsonian Institution have come out with their list of the best books of the year (see list). Among them is the Jewish Food Society’s Jewish Holiday Table by Naama Shefi with Devra Ferst, the only cookbook that made the cut. Of course, I’m biased, having contributed to the chapter on Rosh Hashana and now working in an official capacity with the organization. But if you are looking for the perfect holiday gift for someone who loves food and the stories behind it, this is the gift to give this year. Order here.
I am going to make this asap!